Post-Brussels Burdens

Many people stateside have been asking me what the scene over here looks like in the wake of recent terrorist attacks in Europe (e.g. Paris, Brussels). I would begin by saying that I don't think the Czech Republic has been effected by happenings as much as other countries, as it is not as big of a 'thoroughfare' or 'target' country. Many internationals don't know it exists (especially non-European internationals) and as a result less of them travel through or to it. If they do find themselves in this magical, strange, and unexpectedly xenophobic land it is often during a brief layover on the way to Germany or Austria. Consequently, it seems Prague is also a little lower down on the terrorist radar; as it doesn't harbor any internationally or EU-wise vital buildings or offices.

However, regardless of what reality may or may not suggest, Hlavní Město Praha is dutifully making some changes to ensure its residents and the international community that it is fully prepared for what may or may not happen. Security has been increased around the city, with military police armed with automatic weapons becoming a common sight. Airport lines may be a little longer. More 'normal' policeman can be seen making the rounds.

A second (unfortunate) result of recent attacks has been a fueling of the xenophobic fire that burns remarkably brightly here in the capital city. As is the case many places (including the U.S.), these attacks have served as a springboard for anti-immigration and anti-Islam rallies. As you may recall from a couple posts ago, many Czechs are not the biggest fans of the refugee/immigration situation...this number has only increased and intensified in the aftermath of these assaults.

All in all, one could say not too much has actually changed here in light of recent events. Security has increased in a manner that seems more meant to ease the anxieties of the city's inhabitants than to prevent any sort of perpetration. Citizens have continued protesting against something that the Czech Republic is already does not have (refugees and Muslims). I have valiantly forged on with my English lessons.

,,,guarding the döner stand

Making an appearance at the Náměstí
Míru Easter market. Fun fact: "Náměstí Míru" translates
into "Square of Peace"

Anti-Islam protests being held last week

Loos-ing it and Boozing it in Plzeň

About a week ago I went on my first excursion to a city/town outside of Prague...to the neighboring town of Plzeň (yes, the one famous for its internationally consumed beer). I went with my friend Vendula and the mission was twofold: tour several flats designed by the famous Czech architect Adolf Loos, and tour the renowned Pilsner Urquell brewery. I am pleased to say that we were hugely successful on both fronts. I will briefly go over each expedition.

Loos-ing it

Many of you probably have never heard of Adolf Loos, as I have found many Czechs also have no idea who he is. However, Vendula gives tours at one of the houses, or vilas, he designed here in Prague and was the one who first enlightened me to his brilliance. He is one of the more important architects involved in the modernist movement. I will not go into too much detail here, as I do not want to be accused of blasphemy or falsifying information. I will leave that to my good friends at Arch Daily, so feel free to click here for more information on Loos.

Adolf Loos

Vila Müller, the residence designed by Loos in Prague

There were a total of three tours (spanning four interiors)...all in Czech. However, I hot the gist of what was said and most of the places also had information available in English. Trial by fire for my budding Czech. Needless to say, it was engulfed and burnt quite hot. The interiors of these places were absolutely amazing. Countless types of wood and colors of marble were prevalent, as well as myriad different doors, nooks, and drawers that you never would have imagined existing, let alone being so perfectly tailored to any possible need or whim of the inhabitants. Elegance married to essentials birth an exceptionally engineered essence in the Loos interiors. While I would live in any of them without hesitation, I'm sure (like all extravagant dwellings) it would end up getting old and would become a pain to maintain. It is worth noting that one of the Loos interiors is still inhabited by an individual (therefore privately owned) and is opened to the City of Plzeň for tours.

One of the Loos interiors, a second story flat, can be seen by its green window
trimming

View of the street from the inside

Dining room

Our guide was kind enough to unwittingly
pose for a secret photo (he must not have
heard how dangerous I am with a camera)

This is the toilet in the nearby bus station. One
of the Loos interiors was almost demolished
to make space for the station and, by
association, for this horrible excuse for a
bathroom

A small example of how Loos turns the daily
into the delightful

Brew-tiful beginnings

The tour of the Pilsner Urquell brewery was all in English and was also quite impressive, but in the massiveness of its production and the flamboyancy of its production and special effects. You could tell that it was this brewery's first rodeo. Their tour was tailored to tourism and was filled with special effects, hand-on elements, and photo-friendly features. We began at the production/packaging center and continued through the new brewery to the old brewery and finished the tour in the cellar, with a .5 L 'sample' of freshly-brewed beer. For more information on the brewery you can visit the official site.

The iconic old gate to the Pilser Urquell
brewery

Over the bridge and through the lot to
the Old Brewery we go...

The inner-working of the beast

The old water tower of the brewery 

Copper tanks used throughout the brewing process, meant to give this beer its unique color and taste

Good old Pavel Prucha...the man behind the Urquell magic in the year
of my birth

The underbelly

Samples of the old kegs (not in use today)
that held and transported the divine
substance

Well that's all for now, folks! If you want to get your liver involved in the experience/experiment you will be able to find Pilsner Urquell at your local liquor store most likely, as it is exported worldwide!

A Touchy Subject

One of the hottest issues in Europe, and a lot of the world (U.S. hugely included), is the so coined "refugee 'crisis". The Czech Republic is no different. Is no different in terms of the fact that immigration and refuge provision are hotly debated subjects in the country. Is quite different in the fact that the Czech Republic has one of the lowest rates of asylum in the European Union.

I realize that this is a very touchy subject, but I decided that many people (especially those reading from abroad) might be curious as to what the situation is like in the Czech Republic in the midst of such a huge period of upheaval. This being said, I do not claim to be an expert or definitive source on the subject, but I have spoken to many people of many ages and walks of life, being a teacher, and I thought I would share a little, general information about the tidbits I pick up.

The Czech Republic has one of the lowest rates of granted asylum in the European Union, and is greatly considered to be one of the less friendly countries to find yourself in as a refugee. There is little government support, almost no infrastructure, and the population generally adopts a cold stance towards these Islamic outsiders. There has been controversy with human rights groups and some media outlets who cite extended periods of detention in the Czech Republic as refugees attempt to head toward a more welcoming Germany. These stints of detention may often be unexplained, unnecessarily extended, or result in deportation back out of the EU without honoring refugee status. The perceived difference in culture is widely cited as the reason that the refugees "just wouldn't work here" and that "it would be different if it were a Ukrainian or someone of similar culture". 

By no means does everyone share the disposition above, but as a general rule it rings true. I teach many adults, and a lot of them will express dissatisfaction with any mention of refugee aide. In fact, Angela Merkel is now seen in a very unfavorable light by many as a result of her legislation and staunch support of granting asylum and establishing asylum quotas for each country (something that is currently a very debated topic in the EU). I also teach a lot of children and, sadly, they reflect and echo their parents' anti-refugee sentiments. One 12-year-old asked me, "What refugees?", to which I answered, "I think they are good. People need help. Do you agree?" He responded, "No, not refugee. Syria and Muslim no is good. Isis." It is true that most of the tension resides with harboring Syrian refugees, as that is the most blaring example of aide needed currently. 

Well, that is enough. I do not want this to be a lecture or opinionated column, simply a sharing of the general disposition of the country with those who may be interested. It is important to remember that the Czech Republic is by no means the bad guy here, as the U.S. has also more or less banned Syrian refugees from being granted asylum in many of its states. 

For more information check out this BBC article detailing various aspects of the current situation. 

Also, here is a video from TED.com that I found interesting and relevant. Brings up some interesting ideas and might be worth a watch:

https://www.ted.com/talks/alexander_betts_our_refugee_system_is_failing_here_s_how_we_can_fix_it

Kouzlo noci

Prague is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. In the world. Fact. However, one of this multifaceted city's unique and maybe less-seen sides is at night. The ancient capital glows with a certain vibrancy and is lit in an absolutely magical way. With blaring intentionality at times and as the result of practiced practicality at others. From the biggest name sites to the most out-of-the-way parks and landmarks, the city offers a plethora of paths. corridors, and streets through which the eager explorer will easily encounter scores of new and interesting perspectives and sides of the city. Many times it is as if you are seeing sites for the first time.

Similarly to how youth is wasted on the young, these nightscapes are often wasted on those with double vision. The crisp brilliance of Prague Castle or St. Vitus cathedral across the Vltava at night (reflecting across the water) is just not the same after an afternoon in the hospoda. Which is why I have taken it up as my hobby. Not the hospoda-hopping, but the Prague night walking. The point of this short post is to convince you (warn you!) to not miss out the chance to do the same when you find yourself in this city. 

In the winter it is especially easy to go night-walking, as it gets (in December) dark at almost 16:30. Now (March) it gets dark closer to 18:00, which has been very nice. Often when I go night walking I will simply pick a direction and begin moving that way...finding my way along as I go. This is a great way to lose yourself in the beauty of the city and explore a bit. However, if I do choose a destination, one of my favorite places to go is Vyšehrad, which also happens to be my favorite place to go during the day as well. It is, though, quite impossible to go wrong with Prague at night.

Here are a few photos captured during my nocturnal wanderings. I must apologize for their quality, as I use my phone for all photos and it just doesn't seem to perform quite as well at night. 

Old Town Square...even the number of
tourists dies down a little

Jerusalem Synagogue 

View from Nusle Most (bridge). You can see Vyšehrad in the distance
on the left side

Vyšehrad 

On the grounds at Vyšehrad 

You just never know what you may
come across...like this gem

Prague Castle

One of those things that I'm sure we learned about in some
general safety class: "Don't ever climb a 10 story ladder
supported by little pieces of wood

Vyšehrad 

Vyšehrad 

Exiting the gate of Vyšehrad 

My new neighborhood on Vršovická street