Saturday, September 24, 2016

9,360km North, 9,391km West

This is guest post, courtesy of Eli Briody-Pavlik, my awesome cousin who visited for a few days on his way home after a summer studying in South Africa. Note: There is an abnormally high number of photos in this post (family documentation purposes), enter at your own risk. 

You haven’t quite lived until you’ve toured with Zach Pavlik.

I learned this lesson over a four-day period in Prague in early September. Prior to my visit to Prague, I studied abroad for a summer in Cape Town, South Africa. I had been abroad before and I was familiar with the tourist lifestyle, however, I had never experienced a city quite like I did this time.

Zach and I did three things in Prague: we ate, we drank, and we walked. When I’m at home, I eat three times a day so that I have the energy to tackle my activities. In Prague, I did activities hoping to burn enough energy to tackle the next meal. Between meals, we tore through the streets in search of landmarks both famous and obscure. I have to give a nod to Robert Humphreys, with whom Liza and I saw an impressive portion of the city in a handful of hours in summer 2014. Many locations were familiar to me because of that trip. While Zach and I walked, we chatted about a year’s worth of adventures and thoughts (I’m lately into politics, and Zach’s lately into photography, among other things). Zach also endeavored to help me taste every beer in Prague. We gave it a good effort, but fell short. I was reminded of Zach’s German host’s famous phrase, “it’s not so simple.”

On my own in Prague, I might have had goulash and Pilsner Urquell. I might have climbed the entrance gate on the north side of the Charles Bridge and clambered up the Petrin Tower. Only with Zach would I have enjoyed a guided tour of the Miller Home (designed by Adolf Loos) that was led by Zach’s friend, Vendula. Without a local by my side I never would have ventured to the vast, sleepy cemetery of Olsany or to the castle Karlstein, where bay windows serve as fifth-story outhouses.

Zach devoted four full days to showing me a city that he loves, and I didn’t come away empty handed. I tasted a cheesecake that was so good I won’t ever feel the need to try cheesecake again. I repaired my relationship with sauerkraut. More importantly, I reconnected with my cousin and peeped through a window at the past year in his life.

I’m very fortunate these days to have the means to see the world. My vacations used to be more modest- we’d pile into the van and drive across the country, sleeping on the ground. Things are different these days. I watch the latest episodes of House of Cards between hot meals on my way to cities all over the world. One thing remains the same: high-quality Pavlik hospitality. Here’s to four days of good food and good company- and to many more.

In front of Panna Marie Vítězná, housing the famed
Infant of Prague...this one's for you grandma! 

Nice little photo bomb on the side of St. Vitus



Checking out the queen's summer house...

The interestingly-similar-to-an-old-oil-drilling-machine
Metronome of Prague, which can be seen from all over
 the city atop Letná


One of the best views of Prague: Admired by Zach, captured by Eli

Vegetarianism dies hard, but beer helps the pangs of guilt dissipate

New-age architecture of Karlín business district

My favorite lunch spot

Some kids enjoying the summer cinema underneath the old aqueduct 


The good 'ol Prague sunsets on the Vltava


About to embark on the famed Náměstí Míru escalator, the longest in Prague

Catching up with a Colombian buddy from the Würzburg days...not to mention
having a plate of svíčková, one of the most typical Czech dishes

Among the tombs...

The old freight station in Žižkov, where apparently a circus was going to be happening later

Best fast food pizza place in Prague

Delicious meeting with one of my students, Iva, mother of a recently married
man and bestower of an amazingly made koláč

Picnic at Vyšehrad, Prague's other fortress

Spooking around outside Basical of Sts. Peter and Paul at Vyšehrad

Trying to prove all those years on the Pavlik basement pool table weren't
for nothing


Keeping my ducks in a row


Becherovka: Taste of Czech Republic and 13th spring of Karlovy Vary


View of Prague Castle from the terrace of Villa Müller 

The best Vietnamese place in town...the Vietnamese
make up the Czech Republic's largest non-white minority 

Some of that FC Sparta love...the biggest football (soccer) club in Prague

Cukrárna Alchymista...cheesecake so good it'll make 'ya cry

The senate of the Czech Republic



It's a well-known fact that all the world's best beer is made by monks

Don't forget to take time to stop and smell the roses




Fried cheese, an amazingly Czech oddity of amazing edibility 

Prayers on the Charles Bridge

Casually purveying the empire

Pribináček, favorite sweet treat of Czech children and
anyone with a decent palate and appreciation
for gastronomy 

Vendula and Eli in the shadow of Karlštejn Castle.
The castle served as the stronghold for Charles IV's
jewels and later the treasures of the entire Holy
Roman Empire



Contemplating the mysteries of Karlštejn

Stuck in the Dark Ages

Castle's defenses slacking on the job

Serious question: "What's the best Czech beer?"



Winding down the trip at Mexiko, a quarry that was
used to supply forced labor for political prisoners
and dissidents 

Thursday, September 8, 2016

Valar Morghulis

If there is one place that you will end up during your time in the Czech Republic that is not Prague, it will very likely be Kutná Hora. Kutná Hora is just a roughly 60-minute train ride from Prague's main station, and is a classic destination for day trips out of Prague. A couple weeks ago this is exactly what we did. We caught the train in the morning and then just barely ("barely", like after running a few kilometers and then jumping onto a carriage as the conductor blew the whistle, "barely") made it on the last train back to Prague in the evening.

Kutná Hora is not a very big town and I did not feel drawn in any special way to the town itself. It seemed as if the town had been hastily put together around its main points of interest, and aside from that Kutná Hora itself did't have the welcoming, comfortable, magical atmosphere that is present in many other ancient European cities. The main sights to see are Sedlec Ossuary, probably its most famous attraction, St. Barbora's Cathedral, and the old silver mines (which we unfortunately didn't get to see, as they were all booked out). A fourth destination, which I don't believe is fully taken advantage of, is the old Jesuit College that is now home to the Gallery of the Central Bohemian Region (GASK). You will also find a wide array of churches and other points of interest while further exploring the city. Kutná Hora was raised to glory by the famous Charles IV, who used its mines to provision the kingdom with currency. This is also why there may be a disproportionate number of churches and seemingly important buildings for a town of its size.

In Sedlec Ossuary, a small Roman Catholic parish where dirt from the Holy Land was brought and sprinkled before construction, giving the monastery, cemetery, and  ossuary special standing among the faithful of Europe

The coat-of-arms of the Schwarzenberg family 

The ossuary is decorated with the skeletons of
tens of thousands of individuals, many of
whom are thought to have died in the plague




A beautiful door decorated in a way that reminded me both of New Mexico and of my relatives in Verdigre, Nebraska

Jesuit College on the right, St. Barbora's on the
far side

Little Vendula in the big, wide Kutná Hora world...

Inside St. Barbora's, the lower windows were stained
glass, and the top simple clear glass

The ceiling of St. Barbora's

You can see the amazingly impressive flying
buttresses from inside the second level

Winding down the day with a tour of modern art at
GASK. I very much enjoyed the building and the
presentation of the exhibitions