Como está, o Patrão?

I've never enjoyed being called "boss" in the United States and I don't like it here either. However, there is a huge difference between the "boss" of the U.S. and the "patrão" of Mozambique.

The American "boss" is usually meant somewhat sarcastically and is usually either said tongue-in-cheek or as an extremely informal, let's-be-buds-or-at-least-talk-like-we-are sorta fashion. It's annoying. When adults call me boss. When peers call me boss. When Siri or any sort of electronic voice meant to better my quality of life calls me boss. When my boss calls me boss (which somehow actually happens in our culture?!) Boss is bad anytime it's not said in the context of the workplace in the fashion and with the respect, but not compromising of dignity and agency, which which it was meant to be said.

In Mozambique, "patrão" is far from a simple, surface-level, chummy nickname. Patrão comes with all sorts of social, economical and oftentimes racial connotations, most of which are not maybe immediately obvious or consciously intended. Here I am "Patrão" because I am a white male, a foreigner perceived to have money. It's said oftentimes in an almost subservient manner and is almost always followed by a request for money, a job or any other necessity that the individual might have at the time. That's not to say that Mozambicans aren't called "patrão", because I know countless who are. But they have taken their "patrão" and often molded it into becoming their title. Their "patrão" is the result of them owning a car, employing others, firing others on a whim, wearing foreign clothing or accessories, walking with their shoulders back in a way that makes people think twice before approaching them and then affirming this indecision when they reply with short, cold phrases to anyone who starts a conversation. This doesn't paint a pretty picture of being a "patrão" here and that's because it isn't; my experience so far is that, aside from a very select few leaders who I respect, in a country in which poverty is such a problem those who have in some way risen above it tend to want to 1) make sure everyone knows, and 2) distance themselves from those who haven't. Like I said, this is by no means everyone.

You might be thinking this doesn't sound so different from in the U.S. I might respond by mentioning it could be interesting to study how the capitalism we tend to export around the world manifests itself in different countries and cultures. Fun fact: "boss" is one of the handful of English words adopted into and used by both the Portuguese and local language speakers at my site. It is important to quickly note that Portuguese colonialism has had a huge effect on everything we are discussing, as has current foreign investment that is heavily Asian and predominantly Chinese.

Without getting too deep into it all, I've never considered myself a boss in any language or country, nor have I up to this point had the desire to be identified as one. When and if I ever am, I would like it to be due to merit and I hope to be a both who sets himself apart from others who share the title through my treatment of and interactions with those who call me "boss"; every boss should first be a leader. That's not the case here. Here I am a boss to almost any stranger due to the color of my skin and the long list of conclusions it allows others to formulate about me. Unfortunately, there's not much that can be done about this, but to slowly attempt to break down stereotypes person by person.

"Muito bom dia! Como está, o Patrão?"
"Onde? E não sou patrão, mas estou bem...e você? Como vai?"

If anyone needed proof that this guy can't be taken seriously
enough to be called "patrão"...

Three Little Pavliks

Well, Mackenzie and Nathaniel are now safe and sound back in the United States and boy do I miss them! It was such a treat to be able to have them visit from so far away and be able to spend these past couple weeks with them. Among other things, their visit has driven home the importance of family and love, something that many individuals are not fortunate enough to have and a painful circumstance not dependent on economic status (as can be seen in much of the loneliness found in the United States). In the end it all comes down to just that: love. And I am so blessed to have so many people who demonstrate their love and support to me on a daily basis. It truly does give me the strength to continue on some days!

After a 4 a.m. wake-up call, Mackenzie, Nathaniel and I left Michelle in Lioma and boarded a morning chapa to Gurue, the nearest town of any size and first step of a long series of transit destinations. We stopped at Pensão Gurue for a quick cup of tea and use of the running-water-real-flushing commode, before grabbing some snacks for the journey and beginning our attempt at catching a boleia (hitchhiking ride). We waited for roughly two hours, maybe even a little longer, before throwing in the towel and deciding to head back towards the station to pay for a ride. That day, we rolled into Nampula at 19.30, fifteen and a half long hours after waking up in Lioma. First stop was absolutely stuffing ourselves with Chinese food at a delicious restaurant on the main strip, before continuing on to our hostel. The next morning consisted of recuperating a little sleep, taking a little tour of Nampula and then boarding a Nagi bus that took us the rest of the way to Metoro; we arrived around 18.00, just as it was starting to get dark.

Our roughly three days in Metoro were eventful, to say the least. There was A LOT of passear-ing, Nathaniel had a bout of what might likely have been food poisoning, Mackenzie and I hiked a mountain by the district capital of Ancuabe (while Nathaniel was battling his sickness at home), we made homemade peanut butter, Mackenzie's friend, Daniel, from Gonzaga days visited from his nearby site, my friend and fellow PCV, Camila visited, we toured the hospital, we had a delicious t-bone steak dinner with Supermãe (yes, you read that correctly...I imagine that will never happen again during my time here and she had asked a friend to bring them back with her from Maputo), Mackenzie made capulana pants and a dress, we opened/unwrapped the goodie bag that Mackenzie and Nathaniel had brought with them and we spent hours of each day preparing food, the norm here.

To cap the trip off, we went to the coastal city of Pemba for a couple nights in a beach side bungalow. Actually, it was the same one we were hosted in for our Christmas group! We loved the fancy lifestyle and the break from it all, not to mention the gorgeous beach, incredible sparkling water, beautiful sunsets and even an early morning sunrise! Here is the proof of it all...

The deliciously gigantic meal we partook in upon our entry into Nampula. So much food!

Our setup in Metoro. As my bed is so small I had to
buy a second one for the siblings. It is in the local Makua
style and was just enough to take up all of the rest of the
space in my tiny room.

Camila's (to the right) visit, with my host brother, Avelino, to the left

Nathaniel making short work of a coconut. We had
to break it open to get the meat out so Mackenzie
could make coconut milk

Daniel, Mackenzie's friend from Gonzaga days, during his quick visit to Metoro.
Mackenzie is relar-ing the coconut in this photo...which is to say grating the meat
out of the inside.

Mackenzie using a pilão to smash roasted peanuts for
out homemade peanut butter

Us paying a visit to Supermãe before she headed off to Pemba

Mackenzie sporting her new capulana pants. Capulana is the name for the local fabric
that can be found around all the markets

Me breaking into Santa's bag of treats!

The unfortunate circumstances in which we left Nathaniel
as Mackenzie and I went to hike in Ancuabe

The mountain to be sumitted...not as big by U.S. standards, but still an extremely
steep slope and roughly 1,000 foot climb

At the top of the mountain! 

You can see the town of Ancuabe in the middle of this photo

Just to get a small idea of the elevation difference...

After the hike (we just beat the rain) we shared a delicious dinner with the PCV in Ancuabe, Dannia, and a couple, both doctors, who are stationed at the hospital there. They will be leaving at the beginning of February after 3 years here and are from Germany (Jonas, to the left) and England (Laura, to the right)

The Pavlik kids in their capulana attire. The dress was also an article Mackenzie commissioned during her time here!

Me showing the family Metoro's soccer field...In my hand are two stalks of sugarcane that were planned for dessert.

The sprawling (cough, cough) garden that we have started at SAAJ

SAAJ is the youth-centered branch of the hospital

The sunset our first evening in Pemba

Mackenzie contemplating the sunrise on our second morning. We had to get up at
4.15 to catch it!

Nathaniel capturing a photo of some of the marine life the same morning

Supermãe commissioned matching capulanas for Mackenzie and Nathaniel as a gift
to remind them of their family here in Metoro

Nathaniel also had a surprise for us, as he brought me a korta, traditional garb in India. Mackenzie had also bought one there and so we of course needed to do a quick photoshoot

The final sunset in Pemba. One of our four-legged friends accompanied us.

A few fisherman were walking on the beach and asked for a photo. I obliged and they immediately struck poses for the occasion.

The final view of a fantastic trip

The Strawberry Jam Too

After a more-than-brief hiatus I am back! The good news is that there is so much good news it will be hard to remember to put it all in this post. The best news is that my brother and sister, Mackenzie and Nathaniel are currently here in Mozambique for a quick visit before returning to the U.S.! The side note good news is that photo quality (really just photos in general) will be back on the blog, as my siblings have brought my camera with them AND Michelle's mother has been so kind as to offer me an old iPhone to use while here for the more day-to-day moment capturing. If there has been one common theme this holiday season it is being immeasurably thankful for the unbelievable people in my life and the love they share. 

Mackenzie and Nathaniel arrived from Bangaluru, India on the 29th of December and Michelle and I were there to pick them up from the Nampula airport. Nathaniel had been studying abroad in India the past semester and decided why not swing by Mozambique on his way home? Mackenzie jumped on board and took advantage of scattered siblings to visit Nathaniel for a couple weeks in India before syncing itineraries and continuing on to northern Mozambique. It has been FANTASTIC to see the family again after 8 months and we have crammed a lot into the time they have had here. From Nampula we first went to Michelle's site in the district of Gurue, Zambezia.

We all had an absolute blast spending time in Lioma with Michelle and I think we are all in agreement when I say her site is gorgeous and a very comfortable place to pass time. Michelle was such a gracious host and I can't think of a better way or place to spend my siblings' first four days in Mozambique. The longer I am away from the family, friends and environment I am used to in the United States, the stronger my ability to appreciate has become. Appreciation for shared experiences with those you care about and appreciation for all the small things that make life easier. I appreciated all the time Mackenzie, Nathaniel, Michelle and I were able to spend together cooking, hiking, exploring and going through daily routines together. I appreciated the Mozambicans we met who were so kind and interested in our lives. I appreciated the gorgeous environment and beautiful weather we had while there. I appreciated Mackenzie and Nathaniel's willingness to enter the flow of life in Mozambique. I appreciated all of the great conversation we had. I appreciated the strawberry jam too, a seemingly everyday condiment that Michelle quietly allowed us to eat all of, when in all actuality, it likely came from  Nampula, a day's journey away and therefore was a long time from being replaced. 

This was also my first trip to Michelle's site and, in comparison to my site in Metoro, what struck me was the lushness of the vegetation, the widespread-ness of the color green and the mountains that surround her village. I hadn't realized how fond I was of mountains until I arrived here in Mozambique and didn't have access to any real mountains. Lioma was a nice place to get my fix of mountains (although still not 'true' mountains, when viewed by someone used to the Rockies) and she took us on two hikes during our time there. One was halfway up one of the mountains right outside of town and the other was to a waterfall outside of the famous tourist-y town of Gurue to the south, internationally known for it's sprawling tea fields. 

Consider this the first installment of two posts chronicling Mackenzie and Nathaniel's time here. Here are some of the photos from our time with Michelle. 

Everyone finally reunited at Ruby Backpacker's hostel in Nampula the day of arrival. 

Our first breakfast at Michelle's site: a hearty meal of eggs, veggies and
some fresh fruit on the side...complete with some fancy real coffee in a
French press

Mackenzie and Nathaniel's first clothes washing session in Mozambique: wash
buckets, rinse buckets, sun dry

Peeling the fiber out of squash leaves for a traditional Mozambican meal of matapa. The leaves get stewed with coconut milk, peanut flour and whatever other ingredients you might fancy. It is then served over rice usually. 

Nathaniel became Master of the Pineapple when, on
the road to Gurue, street vendors swarmed our vehicle
trying to sell the fresh fruit. 50 meticais later, he was
sitting with three huge, delicious pineapples on his lap.
They ended up being the perfect snack during our time
in Lioma to fight off the hanger.

Hike one: off to a mid-point on the local mountain. To get there we traversed a lot of
local machambas (fields) that were filled with mandioca (cassava) and milho (corn)

The expedition named this flora the Sausage Tree, for the large sausage-esque pods hanging from its branches. One of the most interesting things about my life here so far is all of the different vegetation and animals that I have experienced on the daily. Sometimes the critters are even experienced a little too close! I.e. in my house.

Hike number two was through the tea fields of Gurue to a waterfall. This is a
tractor we saw as we were on our way up taking a load of tea down into town.

The entire countryside is tea fields around Gurue and they are beautiful to
hike through!

View from atop the waterfall.

There was a pool (not near the edge mom) that ended up being a perfect place
for a dip. The way the water fell ended up creating a neat little jacuzzi effect
as well, just like the good old days in the hot tub at home!

Our fearless leader (Michelle) knew that the way to go was to get takeaway down in town and carry it up for a picnic on top. All of us very much enjoyed our chicken and fries from the top of the falls, especially after the long, hot ascent. 

The Pavlik kids all together in Zambezia, Mozambique...who would have thought!

Michelle giving us a tour of the health center where she works

Our last day in Lioma the clouds rolled in and we were finally able to get a taste of the rain that had been hitting the area during this wet season.

An imminent storm was enough to break up the soccer game going on

We got a tour of the orphanage where Michelle volunteers and also gives English lessons. The sisters there were extremely kind and even prepared a little lanche (snack) for us before we went on our way. 

Three incredible individuals and a rainbow

Some home hair cutting ended up happening and I
entered the New Year a new man

One of the ever-present questions in Mozambique is: Who is going to do the dishes? Knowing that this is no task to be taken lightly, Nathaniel got down to business one evening!