Sunday, March 25, 2018

Men: 52, Women: 1 (roughly)

Feliz Dia de Homem (Man's Day)! You might think it's a little strange to hear this and say to yourself that you've never heard of a "man's day" outside of Father's Day. You might question whether this is a new thing or if it's been around for awhile. You might be checking your calendar or searching the internet for any indicator that the 23rd of March is anything more than a Friday. If this is the case, you might not be very surprised when you don't find anything that confirms today as anything special around the world. However, in Mozambique today is Man's Day ...today and every Friday!

Unfortunately, any attempt to understand this fact in any sort of sensible, optimistic, or gender-equal light will be in vain. This 'holiday' is not official and no one with whom I have spoken has been able to provide a good excuse for why it exists. Men and women who are honest about it will tell you that it was imagined up by men in order to give them an excuse to drink, be out of the house, and sometimes not even return that night (interpret that as you will, sadly no interpretation is TOO open). Individuals who are less forward will attempt to tell you it is a day for men to rest after a long week of work. It is important to mention that here in Mozambique it is impossible to say that men work harder than women and that often it is the other way around...the daily work done by women around the house is back-breaking and requires more time than one can imagine in the U.S; female work here also includes manual labor (working in the field, carrying water, transporting goods) that many foreigners would assume belonged in the realm of the male workforce. Men will also mention that women actually have multiple days as well, and will go on to cite the International Women's Day, Mother's Day, and Mozambican Women's Day...still a little bit less than the 52 the men seem to have racked up for themselves.

The origins of Dia de Homem are likely diverse and may never be fully confirmed or understood, but some of the reasons for its continuing existence are visible without much digging. One of these reasons is a huge disparity between the genders when it comes to agency. Women are very much disempowered in a traditional culture in which the man is the undisputed head of the household. This is compounded by the man being seen as the main 'worker' in the household, which creates a situation of dependency and leaves women without much power in the relationship. Men are also more sexually liberated as a general rule, something that has been absorbed into the group-thought and accepted by society; many times this leads to an unsure dynamic in a relationship and is yet another reason why a wife might be reluctant to fight against undesirable aspects of a relationship where she feels, or is told she is, replaceable or just one of a few options.

Perhaps the biggest factor in this undesirable and unequal situation (because anyone will understand the injustice when you question why men get 52 holidays and women only receive one official one each year) is the "'É assim (that's the way it is)" mentality that is so prevalent here in Mozambique, and especially in the North. There is a mindset of accepting things the way they are just on the basis that they are that way and can't be changed.

This is one of the biggest things we try to change as volunteers.

A couple children laze in the shade of a tree at the Ancuabe primary school, potentially playing hooky from the classes that are taking place less than a hundred meters away. Another disempowering factor for women is the disparity in education...the primary grades are often filled with more girls than boys, but by the time students reach secondary school, many of the girls have had to drop out to help out around the house or take care of a child that was the result of an early pregnancy. The fight for gender equality in Mozambique will be a long one and must take place on many fronts.




Sunday, March 18, 2018

Coasting Through Service

Recently I had the privilege of visiting Quelimane, the capital of the province of Zambezia, in a quick trip to visit Michelle, who was already there for a conference. It turns out that Quelimane is SOUTH a further 6 1/2 hours of drive time past the roughly 4 that I already made to be in Nampula, much further south than I had earlier imagined after consulting Google Maps. However, this city is incredible and I absolutely loved exploring it, as it had a completely different vibe than other places I have been so far in Mozambique. Pemba is known as a tourist destination. Nampula is known as a den of thieves. Quelimane is known as Little Brazil.

Quelimane is a coastal city, but to access the beach (named Zalala) you have to drive roughly 20km out of town. However, despite not having direct access to the ocean, the general atmosphere of Quelimane seemed more more like that of a coastal town than that of Pemba in Cabo Delgado. There was a natural, relaxed, formless, bustling-but-not-in-a-stressed-way sort of flow to the city that was reflected in the dispositions of its inhabitants as well. One of the coolest things about this capital is the bike taxis, which are one of the most common, if not the most common, way of getting around the city. It was great to be back in a place where there was so much biking and reminded me in some small way of cities like Boulder in the U.S., where they have such a presence. One taxi 'driver' I rode with told me that he had been working in the business for about 18 years! It's also worth mentioning that the street food in Quelimane is to die for. There are multiple hot dog (like big, fat Polish sausag-esque hot dog) stands, an incredible ice cream window and many of the other countless morsels that can normally be found in the streets. 

Two of the ultimate highlights for me were: 1) Zalala beach, and 2) Café Delicioso. The beach wasn't the huge, sprawling white sands and clear waters of Pemba, but was more rugged; the water the day we went was actually extremely dirty and filled with soil and debris from what might have been an earlier storm. The waves were optimal for body surfing, and Michelle and I had an absolute blast getting out into the surf a ways and riding the waves back into the shallows. While we were there we also tried the catch of the day...unreal! There's nothing quite like fresh fish and this one was huge, totally fresh, prepared perfectly and had an unbelievably good flavor. There is a stretch of the beach where most of the fishing takes place, or at least where the boats are stored, and it was intriguing to walk along this stretch, meandering through all of the boats retired for the day. 

Café Delicioso is one of those cafés that writers dream of, the full package with great coffee, a bare essentials appearance, amazing baked goods (and food items) at reasonable prices, and a bunch of local, regular-customer, old men outside on the patio drinking espresso, smoking cigarettes and yelling and pointing at each other from their respective sides of the walkway. It's the kind of haven that I would frequent if I had access to it, but Michelle and I did end up making sure to get there three times during our stay. Can't say enough about it and it is a shame I will most likely never get to go back! 

Quelimane was a fantastic trip and I was extremely lucky to get to spend some time with Michelle in such a laid-back city with so much character...another destination down on our adventure list! 


An abandoned fishing boat on Zalala Beach, near Quelimane (Photo: Michelle)

The lady I got a ride to Quelimane with and her sister were going to Zalala Beach
for the day, so Michelle and I were able to jump along for the ride! (Photo: Michelle)

There were A TON of fishing boats along this stretch of the beach. The ones out on the water had black sails and it was really neat to see them on the horizon

A beautiful woman on a beautiful beach. Luckily, Michelle is an integrated
volunteer who brings a capulana wherever she goes, so we had the perfect 'towel'
to sit on and watc the sunset

The fish pre-cutting and consumption (Photo: Michelle)

The fish post-preparation...it was INCREDIBLY good! 

There was a puppy on the premises, so Michelle and I went American on it and
had to cuddle it a bit...something that would not be so well understood by
Mozambicans, who see dogs more for utility than lovability (Photo: Michelle)

One of the delicious street food stands with our gigantic
hot dogs...with all the toppings, of course! I brought along
Zertz and we were able to get a couple games in as well
(Photo: Michelle)

Time to go home. The hitch hiking begins...