Wednesday, November 9, 2016

Farewell Tour: Day 2

Long delayed, but finally here is the second of the 'final trip' trilogy. I will separate the post into the different destinations again.

Písek

From Zvíkov, our starting point on the second day, we continued south for roughly 25 minutes along back roads to the town of Písek. The main boast of Písek is its bridge, which is widely regarded as the oldest bridge in the Czechlands. While certainly not as ornate or impressive as the Charles Bridge, there is certainly something to be said for its knack at 'hanging in there' throughout the countless years of war, flooding, and other potentially bridge-bashing events that might have come its way. 

Walking through the Palackého Sady

Czech field trips

Písek Kamenný Most, the oldest bridge in the Czechlands

There was a sand sculpture exhibition/competition on the riverside

Vendula was not intimidated by the dragon and even went so far as to face it one-on-one
to a staring contest, which she unfortunately lost

A little girl peeking out of the cannabis shop





Bike against an old wall mural


Zlatá Koruna 

After a tour of Písek we continued on our merry way about 70km to the south, ending up at the Cistercian monastery (no longer functioning) of Zlatá Koruna, or Golden Crown. This monastery was founded back in 1263 to help with the bolstering of southern Bohemia's spiritual prestige. For more detailed information on the monastery, here is a site that provides a small history.

Close-up on Our Good Little Lord's knees


A view of the Gothic windows from the monastery's inner courtyard

Courtyard of the monastery, wall of the monastery, and forest out past the walls

Map of the ancient world. If you click and zoom in close you will be able to see
all of the believed locations of various biblical events. Ironically, the Garden of
Eden is in Syria

Inside the monastery halls



A glimpse into the inner courtyard of Zlatá
Koruna
No secret what type of emotions this donation box
is trying to evoke...


České Budějovice 

The last stop of the day was the city of České Budějovice, capital of South Bohemia and home to the world-renown Budvar Brewery. This town had a pleasant atmosphere and was maybe ever so slightly under-explored by us, as time was against us with our evening arrival. 



We were fairly tired by the time we arrived in
České Budějovice...



An interesting exhibition was going on during our visit. If you look in the background
you can see an elevated walkway crossing the main square. The fountain in the middle
of the square, the iconic Samson's Fountain, was encircled by a huge black wooden wall.
The way into that small space was through this walkway. Once there, it was you and
the fountain in a much more intimate and enclosed environment than would normally
be the case. This project was meant to inspire discourse on public space and feelings
towards it. What happens when you 'capture' something that is public and everyone is
no longer able to see it? What feelings arise? Entry was free.

Samson's Fountain from the inside of the exhibit
We finally ended up in the absolutely magnificent Český Krumlov for the night. This brilliant little town will be the settling of our next fairy tale. 

Friday, October 21, 2016

Farewell Tour: Day 1

Everyone hates to see something so good end, and that is exactly how it was for me during my last week in the Czech Republic. However, that is not how it will be for you. Similar to the amazingly overextended final installments of many popular trilogies/series on the big screen, I have decided to separate the blog post on my final trip in the Czech Republic into three sections, creatively titled Day 1, Day 2, and Day 3. 

My last trip in the Czech Republic was a journey back to my "Pavlik" roots of sorts. The destination was Southern Bohemia (one of the most gorgeous landscapes I have ever been to), which is where the Pavlik family originally was residing before their trans-Atlantic voyage. I'll keep you in a little suspense as to the future destinations, but the locations crossed off the list on Day 1 were Tábor, Božetice, and Zvíkov. We'll revisit them together. 

Tábor

Roughly an hour and a half south of Prague, Tábor is named after the biblical mount upon which the Transfiguration took place. The city itself is not very big, but it is a destination for southern sojourners. The amount of tourism, however, pales in comparison to that found in places such as Prague, Český Krumlov, and Kutná Hora. 

View of the Town Hall from the tower of the local church. Tábor is a town that
still really only has one square in the middle, the center of the city being the
church and town hall just like in the olden days. Attendance, however, I'm sure
has declined, as is the case across the board in the Czech Republic

Another view out the tower window

Colorfully decorated trashcans made me think of creative cousins and relatives
in Verdigre, Nebraska who always seem to find ways to make public spaces
a little more beautiful

A cool little bench found outside the Tábor gallery that was a gift from Tábor's
sister city of Orinda, California, which is just 20 minutes from San Francisco
and is very near UC Berkely 
I do want to provide a link to the fun and interesting connection between Tábor, Czech Republic and Orinda, California. You can see the relationship and history of the sister cities on this website and even make a point of attending the "King Wencesles Festival" they will be holding in honor of their Czech counterpart in 2017! 

A final view of Tábor before driving away

Božetice

This very small Czech town, about half an hour away from Tábor, was home to the good-old-ancestor-Pavliks. The town reminded me very much of Verdigre, Nebraska, where the Pavliks eventually ended up. Božitice is exactly what I would imagine Verdigre to look like if it were in the Czech Republic...and somehow even smaller. Verdigre is a very small village of roughly 600 inhabitants that is very much an agricultural community originally founded by Czech immigrants. Verdigre still holds onto its Czech heritage: many older inhabitants speak a bit of Czech, there is an annual Kolach Days festival, and there is a family owned and run bakery that has fresh Kolaches sitting in the window. For all my Czech friends, you may be interested in 'czeching' out Verdigre's website to do a little fact checking, as it boasts to be the "Kolach Capital of the World" - no small title! 

Entering the homeland


The Božetice recycling center

Vendula and I decided that this is the origin house of the Pavlik clan

Large 'pools' were used in earlier times especially for fire-fighting purposes. Trucks
could back up down a ramp and refill in the reservoir. Božetice has converted its
into a swimming pool

An old mill seems to be the pride and glory of little
Božetice. The museum dedicated to it basically IS
the town and one can take a tour was a very passionate-
looking elderly man that lasts roughly 90 minutes.
Unfortunately, we didn't have time to embark on this
enlightening adventure, but were amused by the fact that
such a little place was boasting tours longer than any
of those found in any major tourist destination. Small
town feel. 

Hrad Zvíkov 

Continuing on another 40 minutes or so, we ended the day at Zvíkov Castle, an amazing semi-ruin with iconic placement on a peninsula reaching into the Vlatava River. The castle is now a self-tour of sorts. One pays a very reasonable admission fee and then is at liberty to explore the entirety of the castle grounds, with information boards, arrows, and exhibits helping lead and explain the visitor's way through the structure.

Source: www.flyfoto.cz

The entrance of Zvíkov



Peering into the courtyard and spying on the serfs...

Beautiful frescos and wall paintings had been recreated in likenesses of their
original forms



View of the Vltava from the castle tower

Little Vendula not missing the beautiful potential present in a Vendula-sized castle




At water's edge

One among the crowd

The romance of Zvíkov

Making an exit...

Thursday, October 6, 2016

Blast into the Past

On September 24, Vendula and I went on a quick day trip to a town called Přerov nad Labem and went to an exhibit, called a Skanzen, meant to model the day-to-day life of inhabitants of the settlement in the 18th century. The Skanzen (which is the general Czech word for such a venue) was an entire small village that had been reconstructed. All of the structures were original. In fact, many of the cottages and buildings had been disassembled in neighboring villages and towns and then transported and reassembled in Přerov nad Labem. Due to a festival that was currently going on, also present in the Skanzen were people dressed in the original garb of the time and performing some of the daily activities and duties that might be seen if you were alive in the era. Here are some photos:



Many individuals and local residents dressed in traditional outfits and went
around the town performing everyday chores and enlightening visitors

Looking out the window of the local Zámek (chateau),
which was opened for the festival

A happy Vendula imagining life in the chateau....

Snapshots into 18th century life were found in the various rooms of the structures of the Skanzen



Designs on old traditional furniture


A reenactment of olden muskets and firearms 



Some old, racy magazines

A demonstration of woodworking and craftsmanship  

As part of the festival there was a small 18th century harvest ceremony
followed by a parade to the chateau

Children in the parade

A young blacksmith apprentice learning the trade



Some old school dueling 



Caught in the photo-taking act

A young one ready to dance

Local lake in town