Time to Cool It, Cabo!

A lot of people are curious what the weather is like here in Cabo Delgado and what sort of seasons we have, so I thought I'd jot down a quick little post on the climate here and my personal experience with it. According to the National Geographic, there are three types of tropical climates, and I would say that Cabo Delgado seems to fit quite comfortably in the tropical wet and dry: savanna group. This means there are three principle seasons present: one that is hot and dry, one that is hot and wet and a final one that is cool and dry. Lets go through each of these as they relate to Cabo:

"Cold season" (cool and dry) - this is the season we are entering right now and begins usually towards the beginning of May and lasts 3-4 months until July or August. While "cold" is certainly a relative term, and here means that it can get down to high 50's at night and mid-70's during the day, once one is used to the normal temperatures of the regions a blanket becomes a welcome addition to the nightly routine. This period can be breezy, which usually provides a refreshing movement in the air and helps to cool down the days when the temperature itself doesn't drop too much. This is the time people plant tomatoes, onions, cabbage, lettuce and most other 'small-scale' items (as opposed to cassava, peanuts, beans and corn, which seem to always be planted in huge quantities). Needless to say, this is one of my favorite seasons, as it's the closest I'll get to winter or Fall here!

"Hot season" (hot and dry) - this season is the one that most volunteers fear, due to the merciless heat it brings with it. This season usually begins in August and will last until December or January, depending on when the rains come that year. During the hot season the temperature is in the 90's without fail and can zip up even higher at times as well. In a coastal city like Pemba this season usually takes even fewer prisoners due to the humidity, whereas in a location a little more inland like Metoro it tends to be a slightly drier heat, though not near as dry as that of New Mexico or Arizona.

"Rainy season" (hot and wet) - the rainy season varies in its arrival, but usually starts in December or January and lasts 4 months or less. During this season it is often very hot during the day (progressively hotter as the day goes on) and then the afternoon sometimes brings rain. During this season the heat is a very humid heat and locals use this time to plant their machambas (fields) with corn, cassava, peanuts and beans. The level of production during this period is dependent on the quality and frequency of rain, which is important because the food produced during this season serves as the dietary staples for the rest of the year. This period of time is also known as the tempo de fome (time of hunger), as much of last year's product is being used up and the new production is still growing and not yet ready to be consumed.

Well, hopefully that gives you a little better picture of the swing of the seasons around these parts and know that I'll sitting back enjoying the relative cool during these days as most of you are entering the hottest months of your year! 

When Mãe Puts on her Party Hat...

...things get interesting and the festivities last the entire day! This post is a quick little blurb about Dia 7 de Abril, or Dia da Mulher Moçambicana (Mozambican Women's Day). You may recall in an earlier post the inequality surrounding the genders when it comes to recognition and appreciation, with men somehow claiming every Friday as theirs with "dia de homen," but only giving women the one nationally recognized holiday. Well, when that day comes around on the 7th of April every year, the women make a point to take advantage of it and do it up in style! 

This year's holiday fell on a Saturday and the events began as they do for most holidays: in the praça with the singing of the national anthem and a laying of flowers on the memorial plaque at the center of the square commemorating the country's independence. After that the crowd moseyed on to the gathering space by the administrative building (mayor's office) and listened to a couple speeches made by Metoro's leaders (especially political leaders, who seem to always find a way to sneak in their agendas) before watching a couple performances by local groups. One of the groups that performed was the local school, in which a group of young girls did a dance and a couple adolescents recited poetry they had writtem in memory of Josina Machel, the second wife of Samora Machel,  revolutionary and first president of Mozambique. April 7th is the anniversary of her death and she is widely recognized as a national heroine. 

After the activities in the plaza finished up the real festivities began. Mãe invited me back to her house to cook and spend time with the group of women from the hospital who had decided to make her house the place to be to celebrate. Long story short, I ended up being there from roughly 9 in the morning (you have to remember everything starts early in Mozambique, so the activities in the plaza began around 7 a.m.) until six at night (although the drinking and dancing went on until easily at least 9 p.m.). You might wonder at the fact that the women were still cooking on their holiday, but Mozambique hasn't advanced quite THAT far in the holiday that the men might feel compelled to cook for their wives. Honestly, I'm sure the women prefer it that way for a couple reasons: 1) they would be terrified at the possibility of the food ruining their diversion and 2) spending time with a bunch of ladies and no men is a great way to get some relaxation and gossip in without having to think at all about the men in their lives and homes they have left behind. I said "no men" in the previous sentence, but I was lucky enough to be privy to the entire gathering (except for an hour or so stretch of what I can only assume was especially juicy and mercilessly gender-homed gossip) and was indeed the only male there aside from a couple individuals who helped out with the cooking and domestic tasks during the party. It was a blast and the food was INCREDIBLE! The day was also notable for the fact that many of the women were drinking, which is unfortunately not something usually seen in the culture of the North. All in all, it was a completely full day and packed with learning and great moments with my Mozambican family here!  

Most of the women who participated in the party. One of the traditions is for husbands (if they have the money) to buy their wives a capulana to commemorate the special day. This was the capulana chosen by the hospital this year.

Everyone lined up to place flowers at the memorial. The 'important' community members can be seen lined up in front of the crowd and includes local neighborhood leaders, the mayor ans some of the local police force. 

After the laying of flowers, the ladies marched down the street and back to the gathering area in front of the administrative building.

Some girls of the local school performed a traditional dance that involves the blowing of a whistle.

Prepping the moringa for lunch. The leaves will be boiled to create a stew of sorts and then served with xima (a food of mashed potato consistency that is corn based)

The feasting! As you can see: not many white nor guys in the gathering, but I held my own and made mãe proud by going back for seconds! 

Rising: The Thing to Do Easter Morning

Holidays are always more homey with family and friends, which is why it was such a treat to have Michelle up to Cabo Delgado to celebrate Easter! You may recall the incredible banquet that was Thanksgiving at the missionaries' house in Montepuez...we did too and so when we were invited there for an Easter service and brunch we didn't need to be asked twice! Food aside, it was a really great experience and one of the highlights of the holiday was a sunrise sumitting of one of the city's mountains to have a small prayer service on top. Throughout the hike up (short walk at an above average incline) it was extremely foggy, which was well-welcomed as we were able to escape the heat of the sun. The fog finally burned off during the last 20 minutes or so on the summit, just enough time to take some photos before our decent, which was much hotter than the ascent. Having accomplished the mission, we rewarded ourselves by stuffing bacon and egg casserole, cinnamon rolls, chocolate bread, quiche and many other delights into our mouths at the house of one of the missionary families, with a short prayer service to wrap it up. We rounded the festivities off with a little volleyball before Michelle and I headed back to Metoro.

Our time together was defined by two main forms of existence: 1) basking in the close proximity that we normally don't have to each other as we passear-ed, visited my host mother, cleaned clothes and all sorts of other normal daily tasks, and 2) eating some of the most delicious food ever to grace the plates of my Metoran residence. It's hard to describe how well we ate in Metoro.  Some of these magical morsels included: 

• homemade ice cream WITH homemade peanut butter cups 
• fish tacos/burritos - Michellle absolutely nailed the tortillas and they would have made a Mexican abuelita proud; I didn't do so shabby on my breaded and cajun seasoned fish pieces either 
• fresh salads with a dressing recipe inspired by my host mother from Germany
• rice and beans (very seasoned) with an egg fried and served on top
• porridge with milk, sugar and fresh toasted cashews that were picked up on the way up from Nampula
• a macaroni hot dish that started out as going to be a soup and ended up being pasta with an almost creamy sauce, warm and perfect for the cool temperatures that Metoro has been experiencing during the evenings 
• popcorn with salt and chile powder sprinkled on it 

Another fun part of the trip was the peanut butter making demonstration that we did close to the market. I had previously set up a date with one of the market vendors to do this demonstration and it so happened that we had to postpone it, which led to Michelle being able to be there for it!  I've dabbled in the peanut butter making business and Michelle has done more than her fair share of PB production, so together we were able to square away what I would describe as fairly solid lessons in how to make the stuff. There were roughly 15 adults involved or watching and at least 25 kids, who became quite the force to be reckoned with once they began to swarm about in numbers after receiving a peanut butter sample. In the end, many people said that they were surprised how easily peanut butter could be made and that they would give it a go at home. Additionally, the children loved it and will hopefully have the chance to benefit from the positive aspects of having access to a supply of it at home. 

Isa and Michelle gazing out over their empire

The group chatting a bit on the top of the 'mountain' after a successful ascent. Unfortunately, there was a lot of graffiti on the top; I thought this was a nice ironic shot to capture

Ben (PCV in Montepuez) and Dannia (my neighbor in Ancuabe)

There were some local children who made the climb with us. I caught one of them as sitting staring into the fog. It turns out he wasn't in the middle of a Zen experience, but was looking down on his partners in crime as they caused a ruckus below

The whole PCV crew that made it for Easter

There was a small praise and worship session on the top of the mountain led by the missionaries

Huge thanks to Michelle for taking photos during the peanut butter demonstration... 

The biggest challenge we would face during the peanut butter demonstration would be the weather, as this photo hints at...

The three main vendors involved in the setup and execution of the peanut butter project: Vitor, Marcucheni and Antonio (from left to right)

Step one: After the sand has been heated (used to give peanuts an even roast), add the
peanuts and start stirring

Step 2: After the peanuts are sufficiently roasted, take them out of the pan and let them cool a tad before breaking them in half to separate them from their inner husk

Step 3: Toss the peanuts to get rid of the husks 

Step 4: Pound the peanuts into the consistency desired, adding a pinch of salt and sugar (to taste) 

Step 5: Share the peanut butter with all of your friends and encourage them to begin making their own! 

As you can see, there was a posse of children anywhere the peanut butter was, hoping for a second taste

A plate of the bounty that was the Easter brunch buffet line

Heaven in a bag...homemade ice cream with homemade peanut butter cups to put inside!

Fantastic dining...some of the best fish tacos I have ever had. It's great to have
such a culinary inspiration for a girlfriend

Men: 52, Women: 1 (roughly)

Feliz Dia de Homem (Man's Day)! You might think it's a little strange to hear this and say to yourself that you've never heard of a "man's day" outside of Father's Day. You might question whether this is a new thing or if it's been around for awhile. You might be checking your calendar or searching the internet for any indicator that the 23rd of March is anything more than a Friday. If this is the case, you might not be very surprised when you don't find anything that confirms today as anything special around the world. However, in Mozambique today is Man's Day ...today and every Friday!

Unfortunately, any attempt to understand this fact in any sort of sensible, optimistic, or gender-equal light will be in vain. This 'holiday' is not official and no one with whom I have spoken has been able to provide a good excuse for why it exists. Men and women who are honest about it will tell you that it was imagined up by men in order to give them an excuse to drink, be out of the house, and sometimes not even return that night (interpret that as you will, sadly no interpretation is TOO open). Individuals who are less forward will attempt to tell you it is a day for men to rest after a long week of work. It is important to mention that here in Mozambique it is impossible to say that men work harder than women and that often it is the other way around...the daily work done by women around the house is back-breaking and requires more time than one can imagine in the U.S; female work here also includes manual labor (working in the field, carrying water, transporting goods) that many foreigners would assume belonged in the realm of the male workforce. Men will also mention that women actually have multiple days as well, and will go on to cite the International Women's Day, Mother's Day, and Mozambican Women's Day...still a little bit less than the 52 the men seem to have racked up for themselves.

The origins of Dia de Homem are likely diverse and may never be fully confirmed or understood, but some of the reasons for its continuing existence are visible without much digging. One of these reasons is a huge disparity between the genders when it comes to agency. Women are very much disempowered in a traditional culture in which the man is the undisputed head of the household. This is compounded by the man being seen as the main 'worker' in the household, which creates a situation of dependency and leaves women without much power in the relationship. Men are also more sexually liberated as a general rule, something that has been absorbed into the group-thought and accepted by society; many times this leads to an unsure dynamic in a relationship and is yet another reason why a wife might be reluctant to fight against undesirable aspects of a relationship where she feels, or is told she is, replaceable or just one of a few options.

Perhaps the biggest factor in this undesirable and unequal situation (because anyone will understand the injustice when you question why men get 52 holidays and women only receive one official one each year) is the "'É assim (that's the way it is)" mentality that is so prevalent here in Mozambique, and especially in the North. There is a mindset of accepting things the way they are just on the basis that they are that way and can't be changed.

This is one of the biggest things we try to change as volunteers.

A couple children laze in the shade of a tree at the Ancuabe primary school, potentially playing hooky from the classes that are taking place less than a hundred meters away. Another disempowering factor for women is the disparity in education...the primary grades are often filled with more girls than boys, but by the time students reach secondary school, many of the girls have had to drop out to help out around the house or take care of a child that was the result of an early pregnancy. The fight for gender equality in Mozambique will be a long one and must take place on many fronts.

Coasting Through Service

Recently I had the privilege of visiting Quelimane, the capital of the province of Zambezia, in a quick trip to visit Michelle, who was already there for a conference. It turns out that Quelimane is SOUTH a further 6 1/2 hours of drive time past the roughly 4 that I already made to be in Nampula, much further south than I had earlier imagined after consulting Google Maps. However, this city is incredible and I absolutely loved exploring it, as it had a completely different vibe than other places I have been so far in Mozambique. Pemba is known as a tourist destination. Nampula is known as a den of thieves. Quelimane is known as Little Brazil.

Quelimane is a coastal city, but to access the beach (named Zalala) you have to drive roughly 20km out of town. However, despite not having direct access to the ocean, the general atmosphere of Quelimane seemed more more like that of a coastal town than that of Pemba in Cabo Delgado. There was a natural, relaxed, formless, bustling-but-not-in-a-stressed-way sort of flow to the city that was reflected in the dispositions of its inhabitants as well. One of the coolest things about this capital is the bike taxis, which are one of the most common, if not the most common, way of getting around the city. It was great to be back in a place where there was so much biking and reminded me in some small way of cities like Boulder in the U.S., where they have such a presence. One taxi 'driver' I rode with told me that he had been working in the business for about 18 years! It's also worth mentioning that the street food in Quelimane is to die for. There are multiple hot dog (like big, fat Polish sausag-esque hot dog) stands, an incredible ice cream window and many of the other countless morsels that can normally be found in the streets. 

Two of the ultimate highlights for me were: 1) Zalala beach, and 2) Café Delicioso. The beach wasn't the huge, sprawling white sands and clear waters of Pemba, but was more rugged; the water the day we went was actually extremely dirty and filled with soil and debris from what might have been an earlier storm. The waves were optimal for body surfing, and Michelle and I had an absolute blast getting out into the surf a ways and riding the waves back into the shallows. While we were there we also tried the catch of the day...unreal! There's nothing quite like fresh fish and this one was huge, totally fresh, prepared perfectly and had an unbelievably good flavor. There is a stretch of the beach where most of the fishing takes place, or at least where the boats are stored, and it was intriguing to walk along this stretch, meandering through all of the boats retired for the day. 

Café Delicioso is one of those cafés that writers dream of, the full package with great coffee, a bare essentials appearance, amazing baked goods (and food items) at reasonable prices, and a bunch of local, regular-customer, old men outside on the patio drinking espresso, smoking cigarettes and yelling and pointing at each other from their respective sides of the walkway. It's the kind of haven that I would frequent if I had access to it, but Michelle and I did end up making sure to get there three times during our stay. Can't say enough about it and it is a shame I will most likely never get to go back! 

Quelimane was a fantastic trip and I was extremely lucky to get to spend some time with Michelle in such a laid-back city with so much character...another destination down on our adventure list! 

An abandoned fishing boat on Zalala Beach, near Quelimane (Photo: Michelle)

The lady I got a ride to Quelimane with and her sister were going to Zalala Beach
for the day, so Michelle and I were able to jump along for the ride! (Photo: Michelle)

There were A TON of fishing boats along this stretch of the beach. The ones out on the water had black sails and it was really neat to see them on the horizon

A beautiful woman on a beautiful beach. Luckily, Michelle is an integrated
volunteer who brings a capulana wherever she goes, so we had the perfect 'towel'
to sit on and watc the sunset

The fish pre-cutting and consumption (Photo: Michelle)

The fish post-preparation...it was INCREDIBLY good! 

There was a puppy on the premises, so Michelle and I went American on it and
had to cuddle it a bit...something that would not be so well understood by
Mozambicans, who see dogs more for utility than lovability (Photo: Michelle)

One of the delicious street food stands with our gigantic
hot dogs...with all the toppings, of course! I brought along
Zertz and we were able to get a couple games in as well
(Photo: Michelle)

Time to go home. The hitch hiking begins...